While trolling through Amazon’s vast collection of books on jewelry, I found this one, published by the Victoria and Albert Museum Press. It’s terrific! Why? Well, first, let me quote this from the publisher:
“This gem of a book, now available in an updated paperback edition, sparkles with diamonds, rubies, and exceptional examples of the jeweler’s art. Featured are exquisite early medieval pieces and superb examples of jewelry design from the renaissance and Art Nouveau periods to twentieth-century treasures and right up to the present. Outstanding photographs illustrate not only rare precious stones but also elaborate techniques such as chasing, enameling, and cameo. Famous jewels are featured alongside rings, brooches, pendants, earrings, and tiaras, all revealing the beauty and technical virtuosity of their makers.”
I couldn’t write that any better, and it was plenty for me to buy the book immediately. The lavish, full-color illustrations were what captured my attention the most. Often with books like these, the illustrations and photos are black and white, with a paltry section in color — always so disappointing. Not this book! The photos are just brilliant — huge and detailed, well-lit and beautifully arranged.
I learned some truly new things from this book. For example, the writers devote a section to Cut Steel jewelry, which was apparently a fashion craze in the 18th century and coveted by not only the middle classes but also the wealthy. Empress Josephine’s inventory of jewels included 2 suites of cut-steel jewelry. Cut steel mimicked the flash of diamonds and gems by its faceting, which apparently caught sunlight and reflected it dazzlingly.
No, this isn't oxidized sterling -- it's Berlin Iron
Another rather unusual material I never knew about was called “Berlin Iron,” which is a type of cast iron produced by the Prussian Royal Iron Foundries starting early in the 19th century. Out of that coarse material, the foundry was able to produce the most delicate traceries and filigrees which elevated the cast iron into the status of luxury item. Because of that status, the royal Prussian family was able to appeal to the people of Prussia during the War against Napoleon to help them raise funds by donating their gold jewelry in exchange for Berlin Iron, which many families apparently did.
The first chapter in this book covers materials, including not only the noble metals, but base metals as well, and discusses gemstones, pearls, organic materials, glass, and enamels. The book closes with a satisfying last chapter on the history of manufacturing and distribution of jewelry, from hallmarking and registration to the selling and merchandising of jewelry.
I can’t recommend Jewels and Jewelry enough. It sits by my bedside and I read bits of it every night, knowing that I will return to it again and again for inspiration and knowledge. Buy it. Amazon, $25.55.
